Drafting a plunging neckline, March 2022
Over the past month, I’ve been experimenting with contouring during the patternmaking process. Contouring, if you are not familiar with it, is the art of removing fullness at intervals so the fabric lays closely against the body, keeping all the necessary bits within the garment. This skill is incredibly important if you want to work with patterns that must hug the bust line free of extra support features, like in a strapless top or dress (although boning is necessary in many strapless garments). It is also an incredibly important concept to master should you wish to make a plunging neckline, much like you would see on the red carpet, where the dress top plunges below the bust, almost to the waist (or sometimes even below!).
Although many designers utilize draping as their primary mode of advanced dress design, understanding how this works structurally in the flat patterning process is critical if you want to create this type of neckline for your own or your client's needs. Additionally, if you are working with woven bra design, knit bathing suits or bikinis, it is incredibly important to understand how the 2D pattern transforms into a 3D fabric garment. Admittedly, a dress form in the appropriate size may be necessary, if one is not available, this makes the toile incredibly important for fitting accurately.
Because contouring has been area that I previously struggled, in my own process of learning and experimentation, I have begun working on a dress design that I knew would push my learning process, increase my understanding of fullness removal, and help me to understand the way curves turn into straight lines.
This is an image taken from my instagram: @wbingham07. As you can see in the photo, the neckline plunges almost to the waist, leaving about 2 inches between the V and the waist seam. For this design, I have retained the waist darts, which I have moved to the outside to create a pleated style to neutralize some of the sultriness innate to the design. The skirt pattern is quite simple with a slit that opens at the right side. Because this is mainly an experiment in contouring, I may or may not turn this into a full dress, but should I decide to, I have a wonderful poly/cotton blend taffeta in emerald green that would really make this piece a showstopper.
The neckline requires pins to situate the dress where it should be, so a redesign of the shoulder will probably precede any future iterations. I may or may not extend the shoulder length and add muton sleeves or a general puff sleeve; although, I’m not set on any one design currently.
I really quite love the back as I think it adds a unique flare to the dress. It espouses elements from the 80s in its recall of 40s style style lines, but I am thinking through the process of eliminating some of the ease, or employing the use of a chain to tighten the back. Again, redesigning the neckline may aid in sustaining the back pieces in their proper place, but even without, they are quite flattering, despite their exposing nature.
The exposed part of the skirt will be finished with bias strips and I will be adding an elaborate bow from the same poly taffeta as the main garment, should I create this in fashion fabric.
I have a lot of travel for both work and pleasure over the next two months, along with button up camp collar shirts I’m designing for myself from the fabric I got in Chicago, so this project may take a side seat until June. I will also be launching a youtube channel in the near future, so watch this space for more details. Finally, I’m in the stages of finishing and grading my blocks, which you will be able to buy directly on my site and on my etsy page. Again, more details in the future.
Best wishes and happy designing,
Patrick x